Multi-pitch trad:
- Obviously not little-kid or baby-friendly (although I may have discussed putting the baby in the haul bag, we were never serious about that), so you’ll need to find a way to do this without the kids until they get a lot bigger.
- If you and your partner were each other’s primary climbing partners pre-kids, this can be a bid adjustment.
- Option 1: Bring a friend and have the parents take turns climbing with the friend.
- If you can’t bring a friend, like on a long road trip, use the on-line partner forums.
- Option 2: Find a babysitter for the trip and leave the kids at home.
- If climbing with your partner was a big part of your relationship pre-kids, this can be an important option to make happen.
Bouldering:
- This can be kid- and baby-friendly and can let you climb with your partner.
- Doesn’t require coordinating with other adults, but can also be good for groups.
- No set-up time, just the hike in.
- Look for a spot with really easy kid bouldering in addition to adult bouldering.
- Make sure there’s a good spot for the kids or babies to play out of the fall zone for the climbers and scope out any hazards (poison ivy, cactuses, etc) ahead of time.
- Watch out for the kids trying to monopolize the crash pad when you need it!
Sport climbing:
- You’ll need a safe base area (ie no immediate cliff drop-off next to the base of the climb).
- This is especially important with kids you can’t trust or if there’s no extra adult.
- Consider anchoring the kids to something if there is a cliff nearby but you feel OK giving them some space to move around.
- Bring a third adult if the kids can’t be trusted to stay safe and stay out of the way of other climbing parties.
- Be prepared for the kids to start talking to you at the worst possible time and distracting you!
- For all the best advice on sport climbing with kids, read the cragmama blog, especially her creating a cragbaby and toddlers at the crag sections, since those are the most challenging years.
Top roping:
- Good for groups, or introducing your kids friends to climbing.
- Especially if there are no existing anchors or if the hike to the top of the climb is long or tricky, it can require a much longer set up time than bouldering and sport climbing.
- Plan to set one climb for adults to have fun on and one for kids that is easy so they stay engaged.
In general, consider doing hikes ahead of time to the crag to check out the “kid-friendliness”. Set low expectations for that hike and don’t bring all the gear with you – if you happen to be able to boulder around a little then consider it a bonus!
Even if you remember a spot being kid-friendly it might not be – if you didn’t bring your kids with you the last time you were there, or if it was a long time since you were there with your kids your memories might have faded about the difficulties.
If it’s one of your first times out with kids on real rock, note that climbs need to be really easy for the little kids – and even 5.2’s can be too reachy! You may end up setting up a top rope or finding a boulder problem that’s not in the guidebook because it’s too easy, and that’s fine, the most important thing is that the kids have fun and enjoy climbing.
The final tip: if there’s only one climb the kids can do and it’s a busy area, have someone go early to set up so that you get the climb you need. And when other people show up, please share the rope with them or take it down as soon as the kids lose interest. We need to find ways to support other outdoor parents as much as possible because it can be challenging even as it is rewarding.
